As assumed, the process of 'swapping motors' didn't turn out to be as simple as swapping motors. Having to use the original transmission (not a bad thing, just unexpected) was the first surprise I ran into, as the new one has another gear, requiring me to pull the entire steering column to go with it. Seeing as the original tranny works and fits, that was an easy decision. Next issue, there was no way to swap all the electrical, as the fuse boxes were different plug types, so the hope of having a fuel injected engine was now in limbo in accordance with my knowledge of electrical conversions, which is absolutely none. Solution, swap the fuel injected intake manifold for my carborated intake manifold. Easy as, right? Not when the 4 of the 12 bolts are driven into the block at a different angle, which brings us to the next diversion; fabrication! After a few hours shaving away the steel with a chainsaw file, I successfully got all 12 bolts securely torqued to GM specification.

At this point all I have to do is install the distributor without messing up the firing order, then stab the motor and transmission into the van and begin hooking everything up, which will be a nice change, because I can do a majority of that from inside the van as opposed to outside in the steady downfall.

And that's what's new!

So here's the progress thus far. Bad motor out, with the other on schedule to be in tomorrow, then I'll be left with the nonsense that is 'rewiring' my '81 previously carborated van for the '89 fuel injected motor I'm putting in. Fingers crossed that once I transfer the 'brain' into my van, everything should work out just perfectly. . .

Last night, I came across an offer I couldn't refuse...


And she purrs like a kitten!




Engine swap time...

Lately, when not searching for jobs, showers, parking places, tools, food and a chevy 350 5.7L engine that runs, I've been playing around with photoshop, actually using it for what it's meant to be used for; graphics! Here's my first project (from an online tutorial)...

I took these pictures....



And made this!


Photoshop is fun!

I've got a surprise for you guys tomorrow. I bought something. . .

"Upon those travelers who make their way without maps or guides, there breaks a wave of exhilaration with each unexpected change of plans. This exhilaration is not a whore who can be bought with money nor a neighborhood beauty who may be wooed. She (to persist in personifying the sensation as female) is a wild and sea-eyed undine, the darling daughter of adventure, the sister of risk, and it is for her rare and always ephemeral embrace, the temporary pressure she exerts on the membrane of ecstasy, that many men leave home."

-Tom Robbins-

The arranged plan of driving to Bishop and working at an animal clinic for the holidays was completely blown apart, along with the lower end of my engine, ultimately leaving Joseph and I stranded in Arcata, but with time comes opportunity, and a free van may be falling into my lap soon. I'm still undecided on what to do with it, but I'm leaning towards selling the freebee and purchasing a rebuilt chevy 350 with the proceeds and dropping it into the motionless shell I'm not ready to stop calling 'home'. Is a day job at an auto shop and possibly night work at a restaurant in my near future? Only time will tell. . .

The past few days have been filled with hopes of work and selling of a van, with the purchase of a new van, hopefully in the near future. It would be just to perfect to move out of this one, and directly into another... Till all that happens, we've just kinda been enjoying some sunshine, which becomes a rarity in the pacific north west around this time of year.

So here's a photo of Moot running up and down the beach, enjoying himself to the fullest. He's a happy pup!


Lucky for Moot, it looks like we're going to be here a while, as I've managed to sling a rod in my van. With an engine rebuild in the back of my mind, I come looking for a job. . .

Haven't been doing to much productive in Cali yet, just kinda been monkeying around...

So long Smith Rock! Had a blast!


Cali time...

"So, what's been going on recently?" some of you might ask. "Are you still in Oregon? Are you still climbing?" The questions keep coming in, but unfortunately, my answers are limited, as we've stumbled across some secrets that people have gone through great lengths to keep secret. You see, just 15 miles south of Smith Rock is the city of Bend, and in the city of Bend, one will find a plethora of breweries, numerous taco stands and, if you run across the right individuals, an abundance of quality boulder problems scattered throughout the area. Who would've know?! Not me, because this place is so damn 'hush, hush' but Joseph and I did find a way in via one of the original Masters of Stone, whom we'll refer to as 'Metalhead'. Thanks to the Metalhead, Joseph and I have been spending the past week exploring the region, climbing on some of the best problems we've encountered in quite sometime!


In the past week, we've been introduced to 4 different areas, with each one providing several challenges and future projects. Although we are shown the problems and told the names, we're still left hanging when it comes to the grading, as everything out here seems to have a v3 rating. I can honestly say that I've never had so many 3's on my project list! Three's that make dynamic moves off of mono pockets, 3's that have absolutely no feet and 3's coming out of blank roofs. It's kind of ridiculous actually, but I'll play along. Yup, Bend, Oregon has some of the best v3/8's I've ever been on, and you can hold me to that! There's definitely something to be said for the amount of amazing boulder problems hidden throughout Bend, but I'm afraid that if I give out anymore information on these hidden gems, I might be silenced for good, so look at the photo's. Enjoy them, but don't come looking for them, and DEFINITELY don't tell anyone you heard about them through me!


That's all the secret's you get for now.

In other news, Oregon has hot springs! Just a short drive through the mountains towards Eugene on the 126 will take you right past the Cougar Reservoir, and it's no secret that this is where you will find the perfect rest day activity for anyone looking to spend some time soothing their aching muscles in one of five toasty hot pools. It would appear that on my journey to seek out the endless climbing season, I have also taken on the delightful burden of finding all the greatest hot springs across the nation. It's a hard job, but someone has to do it! Cougar Hot Springs. Definitely a 'must stop'!

*Shots of me thanks to Joseph*

Haven't been posting in a while due to the abundance of amazing climbing going on around the area, that and hitting up food drives! Thank goodness for damaged canned goods and expiring hummus and veg! Here's some photo's...

The Highline. Distance-130 feet. Height-Really friggin high!

Ok, so since leaving Canada 4 days ago, I have proceeded to blow up another tire just across the boarder, bruise my hip and tailbone at one of the nations most classic skateparks (Happy 20th birthday to Burnside, in Portland, Oregon), and get the shit scared out of me on one of the many phenomenal routes that Smith Rock, Oregon has to offer! Lesson leaned, make sure you know how many bolts there are on the climb before going, otherwise you'll have to do what I did today and just keep cruising past the last few bolts, pulling about a 20 foot run-out, which would lead to an incredible whipper, had I actually fallen before reaching the chains. More shot's and stories from Smith Rock to come. Hopefully we'll find some other people to climb with so I can actually get some climbing shots...

This past weekend, unfortunately, was my last weekend in Squamish this season. The rains have come in, and my 6 month visa has expired, so the only thing left to do was spend some time with those buddies I won't be seeing again for a loooong time. Destination: Sloquet hot springs. Although on the map it's just behind the mountains, the lack of direct roadways made us take the long (only) way around. Past Whistler and through Pemberton, then onto a pothole ridden dirt road which quickly becomes the bane of existence for anyone who doesn't have a $3000+ suspension on their vehicle. Silly me forgot to deflate the tires a bit at the entrance of the road, and 40 kilometers in, my back tire completely exploded. Whoops. Quickly found out the my tool-kit is missing half the items, so a little rigging had to be done in order to get the spare off the front, then to top it off, while jacking the van up in the mud, the only hydraulic jack I had decided to break and drop the van. Luckily I managed to get the blown-out tire back on before the entire back driver side section of the vehicle was buried in the ground. Good thing it was 2 am on a secluded mountain road with no cell reception! After a brief stress period and several 4-letter words, a kind soul came cruising down the road with a jack. Spare on and back on track!

Aleks and I finally arrived at our destination about 2 hours later, after battling with 4 different sets of direction that each contradicted the other, and I must say, the aftermath was worth every second of stress that had to be endured! With a boiling hot waterfall that flowed into about 8 different pools, accompanied by the sights and sounds of the Sloquet Creek, this Lillooet hideaway made for one of the most relaxing and serene weekend I've had in British Columbia! Conclusion; no matter how cold and wet the weather may be, it's always going to be a memorable experience at the hot springs!






Post-soak partying.

Not to much going on, just trying to take pictures and make money. Countdown till the season trip, 9 days...

Not to many words with this one. Just some photo's of slacklining, fire poi, climbing, and Bad Religion, 30 years in the biz, and still putting out new stuff! Proof that punk's not dead... nor is the psyche for climbing!